What to Look for in a Suit Jacket

Like many men, I will only buy a suit jacket for a few big events in my life. So when I needed to buy a suit jacket for my wedding recently, I didn’t know what to look for in a good suit jacket. Why do some jackets cost more than others? What’s actually worth paying for? If you’re looking to buy your first suit in a while, this may be a good place to start:

• Hand Stitching – high quality suits will often have hand stitching on the lapels, pockets, and sometimes other locations. Hand stitching gives the edge a distinctive look, and is a sign of care and quality.
• Pockets – outside pockets should be sewn shut, but the inside breast pockets should be open. Some finer suits have a button-down flap over one breast pocket.
• Natural Fabrics – look for a suit made from natural materials with high thread counts. This material will feel and look better.
• Working Buttons – most suits do not have working button holes on the sleeves. It can be hard to tell the difference, but actual button holes are a good sign.
• Canvassed, not Fused – meaning the layers of fabric are sewn together, not glued. You should be able to pull the layers apart.
• Lining – if you’re paying a lot for a jacket, the lining should be silk.
• General Workmanship – the lapels should roll over, not be creased, the seams should not pucker, no stitching should be frayed, etc.

When it comes to looking good, though, the fit of a suit is just as important as the quality. The fit across your shoulders in particular is difficult to alter, and shouldn’t be too tight or too bulky. If you’re buying a suit off the rack, make sure the fit is comfortable and flattering. If you’re having a suit custom made, be sure to discuss the details above with your tailor first.